Frequently asked questions

I can, if the timing works out.

I carve primarily basswood, which comes in boards or blocks, and cottonwood bark, which I source from a specialty carving store. They are both soft and friendly for hand tools. Since I don't use power tools, I don't generally carve wood or bark from other types of trees. If you have large pieces of wood or a dead tree you are looking to have carved, you might be looking for a power carver.

I generally use two varieties of wood. For sculptures, I use sustainably sourced cottonwood bark, harvested from fallen trees. Cottonwood bark is unique in that it is relatively soft and layered, somewhat like an onion, such that carving curves into the wood (like noses and eyes) brings out beautiful patterns in the grain that highlight contours. I order my cottonwood bark from a family owned specialty woodcarving shop in Canada. For smaller carvings and whittles, I use basswood blocks, which are a popular choice for woodcarvers because they are soft and friendly to work with. Because basswood is generally straight-grained, it is easier to create repeatable patterns and more consistently reproduce character carvings.

If you're not able to take a class, I now have Learning Paths! These are carving courses in digital PDF format that I've constructed from iterations on my in-person class notes expanded with step-by-step photos. Each has sequential project-based lessons to build up skill and confidence. I also have step-by-step tutorials and free patterns for projects available for download on my patterns page. No "talent" required - just persistence and patience. I also enjoy Woodcarving Illustrated magazine and their collection of book publications.

I recommend specialty carving knives like those from Flexcut tools, which are beginner friendly and reasonably priced. Flexcut has a good starter set, and all you need is one sharp knife for whittling. A strop to keep your knife sharp is a must-have, because a sharp knife is a safe knife. I also recommend a good set of carving gloves, which will save you from cuts (but not jabs, so good form is essential.) I like NoCry gloves in particular. Basswood blocks and 1" x 1" x 12" 'practice sticks' are easy to hold and friendly to work with. I order mine online from specialty woodcarving stores like Treeline USA or Chipping Away in Canada.

I primarily teach 4-week and 7-week open registration, introductory woodcarving classes at the Indy Art Center.

I also currently host soap carving activities for families as a Lechleiter Visiting Artist at the Children's Museum of Indianapolis.

I will announce any plans for publicly open workshops on my mailing list. Please contact for inquiries on private group classes or demonstrations, which I generally host at the Indiana Artisan shop and gallery in the Carmel Arts and Design District.

For my cottonwood bark sculptures, I don't use any sealant, but I "finish" them with a treatment of Howard Feed-N-Wax, which is a wood polish conditioner that enhances the natural beauty of the grain. This provides the wood with conditioning oils (like orange oil) that help it from drying and fading as well as a protective coating of beeswax and carnauba wax. I also use Howard Feed-N-Wax as the finishing treatment for basswood carvings after painting with acrylic paint.

I finish most of my cottonwood bark wood sculptures with a light coat of wood polish conditioner called Howard Feed-N-Wax. When kept indoors, they should be long lasting heirlooms. I will lightly brush carvings with a clean and dry toothbrush or shoe brush to remove any visible dust. It's best to keep them away from direct sunlight as the wood may fade. I suggest reapplying Howard Feed-N-Wax every year or so to condition the wood and enhance the grain. Please note that this will slightly deepen or darken the color of the wood (see above), which is expected.